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Birthplace of Hokkien mee going strong for 93 years
Reena Sekaran @ FMT Lifestyle
-
December 22, 2020 7:00 AM
6.4kShares
5.8k
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Third-generation owner, Lee Heng Chuan preparing a plate of Hokkien mee (non-halal).
KUALA LUMPUR: The air-conditioned double-storey brick-and-mortar structure with a giant sign screaming ‘Kim Lian Kee’ along Petaling Street does not look anything like a 100-year-old eatery.
“That’s not the original restaurant. Look for the shop opposite the ‘air mata kuching’ stall,” says fourth-generation owner, Henry Lee on the phone.
A few steps retraced and lo and behold, there it is.
This shop along Petaling Street was established in the 1930s.
An unassuming-looking little tin-roof shack with rickety tables, tiny stools and hungry customers materialises before the eyes.
With customers busy chattering on a Friday night while noisily slurping glistening fat, black noodles and sipping hot Chinese tea from tiny cups, this particular shop looks every bit like a relic of the past.
Could this be where Kuala Lumpur’s beloved supper-time dish, Hokkien mee was born?
Lee Heng Chuan (left) and his son Henry Lee.
“It began way back in 1927 with my great grandfather, Ong Kim Lian who migrated from Fujian, China to Malaysia in the 1920s. Back then, a lot of the Hokkien people lived in Dang Wangi and many of them were homesick, Henry tells FMT.
To give them a taste of home, his great grandfather cooked fresh traditional Hokkien noodles which he sold at his shop.
“However, many of his customers requested that he cook up a dish for them with it and so he did, a noodle soup that Hokkiens in China savour during celebrations like Chinese New Year,” Henry explains.
But it wasn’t long before his customers grew tired of the bland, soupy flavours and Ong had to find a replacement fast. He played around with a couple of Malaysian ingredients, fried the noodles and dished it up to hungry customers.
Charcoal is a key component in a good plate of Hokkien mee.
They loved the creation so much that they asked him for the name of this mysterious looking, tasty dish. Ong pondered for a moment and since he was Hokkien, he suggested – why not call it Hokkien mee?
However, Henry explains that the original stall in Dang Wangi was damaged during World War Two, henceforth making the tiny Petaling Street stall built in the 1930s, now the oldest.
Lee points to the worn-out signage, “That’s been there since the shop opened in the 1930s.”
Sitting at the corner is Henry’s father, third-generation owner Lee Heng Chuan, resting his tired feet. He smiles before recommending a couple of his signature dishes and then disappears into the kitchen to work his magic.
The secret of Kim Lian Kee’s Hokkien mee recipe is its ‘wok hei’.
It’s hypnotising watching Heng Chuan expertly battle the angry flames licking the charcoal as he swiftly throws in a myriad of ingredients – shrimps, squid, cabbage and liberal helpings of crisp, golden lardons into the wok.
Within minutes, the once yellow noodles take on a deep-brown almost black hue, glistening under the light.
The noodles are coated generously in a rich, thick, black sauce. A quick bite reveals a distinctively smoky flavour, with slices of crunchy pork, shrimp, and cabbage. Needless to say, it is lip-smacking.
Kim Lian Kee’s famous Hokkien mee.
“Back then, people didn’t have access to gas so they used charcoal. But we continue to use charcoal till today to maintain the original taste.
“You can’t get the same flavour if you cook with gas. In fact, our shopping mall outlets also cook with charcoal,” says Henry.
But the secret to a perfect plate of Hokkien mee? “The ‘wok hei’,” reveals Henry.
Having worked in the stall since he was 10, he was curious to know how to perfect a plate of Hokkien mee.
“However, my dad refused to teach me. He insisted I observe him cook and so I did. It’s a technique known as ‘wok hei’ or catching the fire.”
The plate of Hokkien mee polished clean, the waiter brings out customer favourites – Spicy Fried Rice, Deep-Fried Tofu with Salad, and Spicy Fried Clams.
If you’re looking for a light snack, the Deep-Fried Tofu with Salad is crunchy and goes well with sweet chilli sauce.
Henry continues his tale.
He had originally studied design but his brother requested that he take over the family business.
“I told him I had no intentions of becoming a hawker but unfortunately at that time, my father was dealing with a couple of issues. So, I told him I would help out for a year or so in an attempt to reduce my father’s stress.”
“I was 21 back then. I’m now 39,” he laughs.
If you’re not in the mood for noodles, the generous portion of Spicy Fried Rice is definitely a must-try.
But it wasn’t only his devotion to his family that pushed him to head the family business for 18 years.
“One day, a grandmother brought her grandson to eat Hokkien mee here. She told me that her father had brought her here when she was a little girl and that the Hokkien mee reminded her of her father,” Henry tells FMT.
The Spicy Fried Clams is the hidden highlight at Kim Lian Kee with its fragrant aroma and juicy morsels of seafood.
Unfortunately, the Covid-19 pandemic forced Henry into closing a few of the outlets. Now there are only five left.
Will there be a fifth generation to take over the legacy of the black noodle? Henry smiles. “I do hope my kids are keen to take over the business but of course, it all depends on them.”
It’s 10pm and Petaling Street is still bustling with more hungry customers making their way here for a plate of the legendary noodles.
Well, it’s become more than a plate of noodles, it’s a legacy that will hopefully c
Reena Sekaran @ FMT Lifestyle
-
December 22, 2020 7:00 AM
6.4kShares
KUALA LUMPUR: The air-conditioned double-storey brick-and-mortar structure with a giant sign screaming ‘Kim Lian Kee’ along Petaling Street does not look anything like a 100-year-old eatery.
“That’s not the original restaurant. Look for the shop opposite the ‘air mata kuching’ stall,” says fourth-generation owner, Henry Lee on the phone.
A few steps retraced and lo and behold, there it is.
An unassuming-looking little tin-roof shack with rickety tables, tiny stools and hungry customers materialises before the eyes.
With customers busy chattering on a Friday night while noisily slurping glistening fat, black noodles and sipping hot Chinese tea from tiny cups, this particular shop looks every bit like a relic of the past.
Could this be where Kuala Lumpur’s beloved supper-time dish, Hokkien mee was born?
“It began way back in 1927 with my great grandfather, Ong Kim Lian who migrated from Fujian, China to Malaysia in the 1920s. Back then, a lot of the Hokkien people lived in Dang Wangi and many of them were homesick, Henry tells FMT.
To give them a taste of home, his great grandfather cooked fresh traditional Hokkien noodles which he sold at his shop.
“However, many of his customers requested that he cook up a dish for them with it and so he did, a noodle soup that Hokkiens in China savour during celebrations like Chinese New Year,” Henry explains.
But it wasn’t long before his customers grew tired of the bland, soupy flavours and Ong had to find a replacement fast. He played around with a couple of Malaysian ingredients, fried the noodles and dished it up to hungry customers.
They loved the creation so much that they asked him for the name of this mysterious looking, tasty dish. Ong pondered for a moment and since he was Hokkien, he suggested – why not call it Hokkien mee?
However, Henry explains that the original stall in Dang Wangi was damaged during World War Two, henceforth making the tiny Petaling Street stall built in the 1930s, now the oldest.
Lee points to the worn-out signage, “That’s been there since the shop opened in the 1930s.”
Sitting at the corner is Henry’s father, third-generation owner Lee Heng Chuan, resting his tired feet. He smiles before recommending a couple of his signature dishes and then disappears into the kitchen to work his magic.
It’s hypnotising watching Heng Chuan expertly battle the angry flames licking the charcoal as he swiftly throws in a myriad of ingredients – shrimps, squid, cabbage and liberal helpings of crisp, golden lardons into the wok.
Within minutes, the once yellow noodles take on a deep-brown almost black hue, glistening under the light.
The noodles are coated generously in a rich, thick, black sauce. A quick bite reveals a distinctively smoky flavour, with slices of crunchy pork, shrimp, and cabbage. Needless to say, it is lip-smacking.
“Back then, people didn’t have access to gas so they used charcoal. But we continue to use charcoal till today to maintain the original taste.
“You can’t get the same flavour if you cook with gas. In fact, our shopping mall outlets also cook with charcoal,” says Henry.
But the secret to a perfect plate of Hokkien mee? “The ‘wok hei’,” reveals Henry.
Having worked in the stall since he was 10, he was curious to know how to perfect a plate of Hokkien mee.
“However, my dad refused to teach me. He insisted I observe him cook and so I did. It’s a technique known as ‘wok hei’ or catching the fire.”
The plate of Hokkien mee polished clean, the waiter brings out customer favourites – Spicy Fried Rice, Deep-Fried Tofu with Salad, and Spicy Fried Clams.
Henry continues his tale.
He had originally studied design but his brother requested that he take over the family business.
“I told him I had no intentions of becoming a hawker but unfortunately at that time, my father was dealing with a couple of issues. So, I told him I would help out for a year or so in an attempt to reduce my father’s stress.”
“I was 21 back then. I’m now 39,” he laughs.
But it wasn’t only his devotion to his family that pushed him to head the family business for 18 years.
“One day, a grandmother brought her grandson to eat Hokkien mee here. She told me that her father had brought her here when she was a little girl and that the Hokkien mee reminded her of her father,” Henry tells FMT.
Unfortunately, the Covid-19 pandemic forced Henry into closing a few of the outlets. Now there are only five left.
Will there be a fifth generation to take over the legacy of the black noodle? Henry smiles. “I do hope my kids are keen to take over the business but of course, it all depends on them.”
It’s 10pm and Petaling Street is still bustling with more hungry customers making their way here for a plate of the legendary noodles.
Well, it’s become more than a plate of noodles, it’s a legacy that will hopefully c
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