Car Coating Discussion

[Froggy]

Anything that is falls under glass coating which should include ceramic coating should be ok. The first post seems to hit all the buttons.

That settles. Better quickly book this morning as Songkrang is next week and all workers leave for home this Saturday. Thanks.

 

[yellowarse]

Paint protection systems can be classified into the following:

1. Carnauba wax, e.g. Zymol
2. Polymers, e.g. Autoglym, Diamondbrite
3. Teflon
4. Ceramics/glass

(1) and (2) will need 2 yearly re-coating, but are cheaper. (Diamondbrite gives a 6-year warrranty, hence more expensive, but you'll need to use a conserver monthly when you shampoo your car.)

(3) and (4) are considered 'permanent' coats, cost much more, but should last the lifespan of your car without need for polishing or waxing. One caveat though: if you get involved in an accident and need to respray your car, your mechanic will have a hard time grinding the coat off, and you'll lose the money you invested.

Whatever you choose, it's a good idea to give the paint's clear coat some protection – it removes the need for elbow grease (fortnightly waxing, 6-monthly polishing) in our hot and wet climate. With a protective coat, all you need is to just wash and shampoo (you don't even need to shampoo with Teflon or ceramics) regularly.

 

[Froggy]

read up on some of the downsides before you proceed. unless your vehicle is a classic or vintage for collection, or you plan to keep the new vehicle through the decades as a keepsake, beware of the downsides. moreover the harsher tropical environment, pollution, and higher temps in thailand may tip the balance in consideration. all my vehicles except a z350 maintain very good shine after 10 years without nano-glass polymer coating. they are still in their original paint and clear coat. the environment is cooler but the engines are burning hotter under the hood as they age and go through a decade of wear and tear all over.

this section is from a ceramic coating expert....lots of them here as one of the classic and vintage car museums is not too far away (have a thread dedicated to that in the serious zone folder).

http://singsupplies.com/showthread.php?196377-vintage-and-classic-cars

What are Some Downsides?

When considering one of these coatings, the pros and cons for a consumer may be different than those of a specialized detailer.

Before you can even apply the coating, the surface has to be 100% free of surface blemishes, which applies to even brand new vehicles. A multi-stage paint correction involves washing the car, claying, buffing, and keeping it pristine while applying the coating. That last step is particularly difficult for anyone who isn’t working in a clean indoor facility.

Nearly all of these coatings use extremely harsh chemicals that when you open the bottle, smell like a nice sampling of jet fuel. After speaking with many detailers who specialize in applying many of these coatings, they mention how they need to take frequent breaks to refrain from going light-headed. These harsh chemicals contain high levels of VOC’s.

Furthermore, when you have a coating that is unlikely to lose it’s bond with the paint, when a paint correction is needed (and believe me, it will be), you lose the coating and all the money that went into it as well.

And lastly, they’re quite expensive. You’re talking about a potential four figure number to get a detailer to do all this work for you.

also, to add, your car body's metal will expand and contract with heat and cold. after coating, there's no guarantee that badly applied coating may crack as the material is not as flexible as metal with metallic-flake paint and resin-like clear coat.

Paint protection systems can be classified into the following:

1. Carnauba wax, e.g. Zymol
2. Polymers, e.g. Autoglym, Diamondbrite
3. Teflon
4. Ceramics/glass

(1) and (2) will need 2 yearly re-coating, but are cheaper. (Diamondbrite gives a 6-year warrranty, hence more expensive, but you'll need to use a conserver monthly when you shampoo your car.)

(3) and (4) are considered 'permanent' coats, cost much more, but should last the lifespan of your car without need for polishing or waxing. One caveat though: if you get involved in an accident and need to respray your car, your mechanic will have a hard time grinding the coat off, and you'll lose the money you invested.

Whatever you choose, it's a good idea to give the paint's clear coat some protection – it removes the need for elbow grease (fortnightly waxing, 6-monthly polishing) in our hot and wet climate. With a protective coat, all you need is to just wash and shampoo (you don't even need to shampoo with Teflon or ceramics) regularly.

Thank you all for the information, very helpful. Decided to go ahead.



Price include : Servicing total of 7 servicing or every 5 months ; and during the period of the 3yr term can claim 4 times meaning if have minor accident they will repair without cost. Wonder if Singapore is cheaper. Managed to bargain for 10% discount for 2 units.

 

[eatshitndie]

Price include : Servicing total of 7 servicing or every 5 months ; and during the period of the 3yr term can claim 4 times meaning if have minor accident they will repair without cost. Wonder if Singapore is cheaper. Managed to bargain for 10% discount for 2 units.

wow! so cheap in thailand. for a large vehicle, it's only about 30k baht or us$850 for 7 services over 3 years. it would be about us$4k over here for 1 time. but again, a $4k job for a $4m collector car is nothing.

 

[Froggy]

wow! so cheap in thailand. for a large vehicle, it's only about 30k baht or us$850 for 7 services over 3 years. it would be about us$4k over here for 1 time. but again, a $4k job for a $4m collector car is nothing.

By the way the entire process is done is an enclosed room with positive pressure preventing any contamination from outside.

Good so its not expensive in Thailand compared to SF I thought imported stuff will be expensive here. So for the 32k after 10% discount is 28.8k per car or $1.1k this include: paint coating, leather conditioning, glass coating, rim care, headlight too.

 

[eatshitndie]

By the way the entire process is done is an enclosed room with positive pressure preventing any contamination from outside.

Good so its not expensive in Thailand compared to SF I thought imported stuff will be expensive here. So for the 32k after 10% discount is 28.8k per car or $1.1k this include: paint coating, leather conditioning, glass coating, rim care, headlight too.

the labor component is expensive here. materials may be more costly if imported, but they typically do not surpass the labor charges here. my mechanic is charging me us$80 per man-hour for repairs, and a detailer may charge more if the job is labor-intensive. let us know how it turns out.

 

[Froggy]

the labor component is expensive here. materials may be more costly if imported, but they typically do not surpass the labor charges here. my mechanic is charging me us$80 per man-hour for repairs, and a detailer may charge more if the job is labor-intensive. let us know how it turns out.

Were sent there in the morning and on the way home from office went to take a peek and make payment. Was told will be ready late tomorrow won't be able to review it as started my new trip this evening however will get maid to take some pics.

As mentioned the job was done in enclosed area

 

[sweetiepie]

Kanina got car drive tao chio liao still want cat coating. Not scare people tula ah.